Today we are cruising in the Beagle Channel which is one of three ways to get around the southern tip of South America. The other two are: the Magellan Straits (we were in it yesterday), also a protected way, and of course the last way is open ocean Drake Passage. The Beagle Channel and Strait of Magellan is restricted to smaller ships because of how narrow they are in places. The Beagle Channel is 150 miles long and 3 miles wide at its narrowest point. This morning we passed the "avenue of the glaciers" which was 3 glaciers that have been receding and no longer reach the water. They were on the other side of the ship so we did not leave our suite just to see them. We were enjoying breakfast in our suite and the view out our balcony doors. There was fresh snow on the tops of the mountains. The weather this morning was amazing as in a 30 minute period we had a little sunshine, then clouds, then rain showers, then snow showers, then some small hail, then fog. This afternoon it is sunny with beautiful blue waters and small mountains on both sides of us. The wind is always blowing in this part of the world! We are heading south now and expect to be at Cape Horn (southern tip of South America) by 5:30pm.
As I said Cape Horn is the southernmost tip of South America. The waters around Cape Horn are particularly hazardous due to strong winds, large waves, and strong currents, as this is where the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans collide. This is why our Captain waited for a last minute, up-to-date weather report from the Cape's lighthouse operator before committing us to go around it. So far it has not been rough but the wind is 50mph outside. We are staying close to the islands now for protection from the nasty ocean. Back in the days of full rigged sailing ships it was a tradition for a sailor who had "rounded the horn" to be entitled to wear a gold loop earring in his left ear. So if I come back home with one you will know why. I believe we will be getting our passports stamped with a special Cape Horn rounding stamp.
There were some big birds soaring along with us but now the wind is out of the west at 90+ knots so they are gone now. Surprisingly, so far it is not that rough but we're not there yet. Believe it or not, there is a lighthouse keeper and his family that lives on Cape Horn. The weather has now changed again and the winds are now only 25 knots and the birds are back. When we were on the west side of the island of Horn in the open ocean with swells of over 20 feet and the ship was really bobbing. We have now sailed all away around Horn Island and on the south end is the 1300 foot peak that is called Cape Horn. Just east of it is where the lighthouse keeper and his family live. Their tour of duty there is one year. His wife is home schooling their kids. So it is now official, Rebecca and I have "Rounded the Horn".
As we are retracing our way back into protected (smoother) waters in the Beagle Channel we are being battered by 50 knot winds. We are proceeding back up to Ushuaia, Argentina. Ushuaia is the most southern city in the world and is where we will be docked all day tomorrow. For the first half of the 20th century the city centered around a prison built by the Argentine government for repeat offenders and serious criminals. Another interesting thing is that in 2009 the first homosexual couple to be married in Latin America were married in Ushuaia.
It is 6:15pm now so will wait until after 8:00pm to go down to dinner. It should be calmed down a lot by then. Right now we would probably fall off our barstools.
